If there's a rumbling noise coming from your washing machine especially on the spin cycle and if there is an excessive movement between the drum and the door seal it's likely that the bearings are worn and need to be replaced. As this is a lengthy procedure that involves dismantling the machine, we recommend that you watch this video in full before making the decision to carry it out.

After disconnecting the machine unscrew and remove the lid. Remove the soap drawer and disconnect the hoses on the back of the draw housing. Then lift the housing and move it out of the way.

Next remove the retaining spring holding the door seal to the front panel. If your machine has a removable front panel remove the kick plate and control panel. If your machines front cannot be removed you may need to lift the entire drum assembly from the machine once it's fully disconnected.

To remove the control panel it may need to be unclipped or unscrewed. Undo all the screws holding the front panel on and remove the panel. You'll need to disconnect the plug from the door lock from the inside to do this.

Disconnect the pressure chamber and sump hose from underneath the tub. Then check for any other pipes or wires connected to the front of the tub and disconnect them. Next unscrew and remove the rear panel. Remove and disconnect the drum motor. If your machine is not a direct drive machine remove the pulley and belt to.

Take a photo of all the other electrical connections to the drum as a reminder before disconnecting them. Check around the back the drum for any more connections to it removed when necessary.

Take off any removable weights fitted to the tub, these can also be located on the bottom or at the back. Remove the damper pins connected to the dampers to the drum by pushing the barb in on the damper and pulling the pin out. If the pins can't be removed on your machine disconnect the damper at the other end.

Remove the springs from the top of the cabinet lift the drum out. Depending on your machine youll need to lift it through the front or the top. Place the drum onto an old blanket or matt and undo all the bolts holding the two halves of the drum together. If there are any clips you also need to undo these.

Separate the two halves using a flat blade screwdriver if necessary to prise them apart. Using a soft face hammer or mallet tap the end of the drum shaft to release it from the bearings. You may need to use a socket extension as a drift to help push it out. Remove the heater from the tub so that you can lay the tub down flat.

Use a screwdriver to prise out the rubber seal from the inside of the tub. With the seal removed clean the faces of the inner bearing and apply a penetrating fluid to make it easier to remove. Turn the tub over and use the mallet and drift to knock the inner bearing out of the tub.

Turn the tub back over to remove the outer bearing. Here the outer bearing is broken up and only the rim remains making it harder to remove the bearing. First apply some penetrating fluid to lubricate it. A flat blade screwdriver or chisel can then be used to gradually work the rim of the bearing free.

If the rear bearing is still intact on your machine then just use the socket extension for a drift as you did with the inner bearing. With both bearings removed clean the housing before knocking the new bearings in with the mallet and drift. Make sure pressure is applied evenly around the side of the bearing and not the centre until it is fully located into position. Push the new seal into the bearing housing, this is a good opportunity to clean the drum.

Before reassembling the tub it's important to change the tub seal to prevent leaks. Prise the old seal out from around the tub, it's a good idea to start at the top of the tub opposite the heater cavity. Examine the new seal for a marking - this should be placed at the top of the tub - then work the seal into the space around the tub. Lower the drum into the tub so that the shaft sits in the bearings.

Make sure the halves are correctly orientated when you do this, screw the halves together by placing bolts on opposite sides to each other and screwing them in until the two halves are just touching. When all the bolts are in place they should be tightened again on opposite sides until there is no gap around the tub, be careful not to over tighten the bolts as this may strip the threads. With the tub reassembled it can be placed back in the cabinet.

Attach the springs to the top of the tub and hook them on to the sides of the cabinet. Next attach the dampers on to the tub. Line up the split in the pin with the split in the damper bush when pushing the pin through, then make sure it's fully pushed in after by pulling on it. Refit the sump hose and the pressure chamber to the bottom of the tub.

Attach any weights the tub that were previously removed before reconnecting any pipes or wires to the front to the tub. Reconnect the door lock then refit the front panel to the machine. Attach the kick plate and screw or clip it in place, followed by the control panel.

Refit the door seal around the rim and use a flat blade screwdriver to ease the retaining spring over it. Locate the soap drawer housing into position and screw it on before replacing the soap drawer. Reconnect the pipes from the soap drawer to the drum.

Reconnect cables to the motor and refit it, if your machine uses a belt and pulley reattach them to. Place the heater back into its cavity making sure it is secure in its seal before reattaching the cables using your reference photo. Connect any other cables to the back to the drum, then refit the rear panel to the machine.

Finally place the lid on the machine and screw it on.

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* All information provided is a guide only. BuySpares accepts no liability for any problems occurred while attempting any advice shown. If in any doubt contact a qualified repair service.